This excerpt from The Irish Hungarian Guide to the Domestic Arts (which, incidentally, is brilliant and makes [ahem] a perfect gift) is dedicated to Al the Retired Army Guy, who sometimes needs to remember things old school.
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The slumgullion
experience of my youth always started off with a pound of raw hamburger on the
kitchen counter. My father would pluck a chunk from it as my mother admonished
him.
"But that's for
the slumgullion!" she'd say.
Undeterred, Dad would
sprinkle the meat with salt and pop it into his mouth en route to his
downstairs machine shop.
Then Mom would
slumgullify the wormy red mass by browning it, draining off the fat and adding
terrifying ingredients. In went Monday's spaghetti, the oily onion and green
pepper dregs from Tuesday's pepper steak, and the remainder of Wednesday's
succotash (which included both lima beans and--god help us--hominy). Throughout
the process, my brother and I exchanged looks of unified dread that culminated
in silent mastication at the dinner table.
Slumgullion.
The name alone is
hard to swallow. It's like a slug in a guillotine in a slum. It's an awful word
the way crotch is an awful word. Who says, "Oh baby, I want to dive into
your crotch"? No one says that. It's gross. "So baby, howzaboutsome slumgullion?"
isn't much better.
Completely unreliable
online historians trace slumgullion back to a) the watery refuse resulting from
whale blubber processing, b) a dish made from slaughterhouse cast-offs in the
slums of England in the late 1800s, or c) a thin stew California miners made
from leftovers during the Gold Rush. Who cares which checkered past is
accurate? Any one of them beats that candy-ass three-fingered Hamburger Helper
glove.
Every slumgullion
recipe is different. People add cheese, tomato sauce, bacon, frozen peas,
macaroni--name your poison. I've heard of people using (help) canned corned
beef. Others use condensed soup to tie it all together. (Admittedly, I
practically deify a can of Campbell's cream of mushroom. If you can't turn one
of those into dinner in 20 minutes, you're no housewife in my book. But if you
transform a can of Campbell's cream of whatever into a platter of Company
Chicken Supreme in a wink, you're in).
So what would
Eringullion look like? Surely I could do better than that Betty Crocker broad
and her boxed Cheeseburger Macaroni. Recreating mom's recipe was no fun. I
needed to update and modernize the slumgullion concept while keeping it firmly
entrenched in its ground-beef-and-ingredients-on-hand birthright. Even if I
didn't have any leftovers, the slumgullion should feel leftovery: refrigerator
round-up in a pan.
I chose onion, green
pepper, a can of creamed corn, one of RoTel's original tomato concoctions,
three old potatoes, (each with a host of gnarly eyes), some Worchester sauce,
and a mysterious seasoning called "Rich Brown" that costs 50 cents
for a box of eight packets at the discount grocery. This darling concoction of
MSG, maltodextrin, onion powder, caramel color, spices, disodium guanylate and
disodium inosinate was, according to the package, "a delicious broth and a
seasoning that brings out the best in food flavors." I am all over that, I thought.
Unlike the Hamburger
Helper experience, as soon as I started making the slumgullion, familiarity
washed over me. You're home, assured
a soft voice inside my head as I doused the diced onion with Mazola. Why, this
was innate. Even the creamed corn that I had included as a mandatory
"yuck" ingredient formed a beautiful golden pool when I poured it
atop the beef. The slumgullion terrors of my childhood were all but gone, a
harmless wisp. By the time I added the canned tomatoes and chiles, I was
grinning from ear to ear and singing "Slum-gull-yon.
Slum-slum-slum-gull-yon" to the tune of "Girl from Ipanema." I
sprinkled a packet of Rich Brown over it all and sighed contentedly.
Ten minutes before
dinner, I moved through the house like an old-fashioned hotel page.
"Slumgullion minus ten," I lilted. "That's slumgullion minus
ten."
If I thought the
Hamburger Helper instilled fear in my kid, the slumgullion was sheer terror on
a plate. She stared at it wordlessly.
I transformed into my
mother. "Eat your slumgullion," I said. She wrinkled her nose and
took a bite, swallowing over a gag.
"Oh, come
on," I said, "it's delicious!"
"Not bad,"
said my dearly beloved before taking a sip of Matthew Fox cabernet
($3.29/bottle at the discount grocery). "It's nothing special, but it's
not bad."
I let his shocking
assessment settle for a moment while blinking at him in disbelief.
"Nothing special?" I said indignantly as I
rose to get another helping. "What do you mean 'nothing special'?" I
turned from the stove to see my daughter quickly set down her plate, from which
she'd dumped three-quarters of her slumgullion onto my husband's dish. "It
beats the hell of that miserable Hamburger Helper!" I said.
Silence.
"Well?" I
said, "doesn't it?" My eyes shifted between my husband and daughter.
"Beat the Hamburger Helper?"
My kid cowered before
my arched eyebrows. "Um ... " she peeped. I glared in disapproval
then turned to my splendid king with pursed lips.
"The leftover
Hamburger Helper was better the next day," he said in a conciliatory tone.
"Maybe the slumgullion will be better tomorrow."
I let "better
tomorrow" float in the air for a handful of beats as my chest pumped short
angry breaths and I glowered at him.
"Well. You.
Miserable. Goat." I finally said, pronouncing each word in a low
deliberate voice. Then I stood.
"Honey?"
said the Goat. "I didn't mean anything." He paused, waiting.
"Honey?"
"Nevermind,"
I said in a high thin voice, then sniffed and retrieved my shoes from the
steps.
"What are you
doing?" he said.
"Nothing."
"Mom?"
"Forget
it." I tied my shoes with force and stood, set my jaw and squared my
shoulders. As my family asked after me, I stepped out the front door and began
walking the earth, never more alone.
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